· Hugo · Repairs · 8 min read
How to Replace a Bicycle Tube (Step-by-Step Guide)
Got a flat tire? Don't panic. Replacing a bicycle tube is a basic skill every cyclist should know. Learn how to remove the wheel, change the tube, and get back on the road in minutes.
You’re out on a ride when you hear that dreaded “pssssst” sound. Your tire is going flat. Do you call for a ride, or do you know how to fix it yourself?
Replacing a bicycle tube is one of the most essential bike maintenance skills. Once you learn it, you’ll never be stranded by a flat tire again. The process is straightforward: remove the wheel, take off the tire, replace the tube, and put everything back together.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through the complete process step-by-step, including how to avoid the most common mistakes that can cause another flat within minutes.
Tools and Supplies Needed
Before you start, gather these items:
- New inner tube (correct size for your tire)
- Tire levers (2-3 plastic levers)
- Pump (floor pump or portable pump)
- Optional: Patch kit (if you want to repair the old tube later)
Pro Tip: Always carry a spare tube, tire levers, and a portable pump when riding. A flat can happen anywhere, and being prepared saves you from a long walk home.
Step 1: Remove the Wheel
The process differs slightly for front vs rear wheels:
Removing the Front Wheel
- Shift to smallest chainring (if applicable) to make removal easier
- Open the brake (if you have rim brakes):
- Look for the quick-release lever on the brake caliper
- Flip it open to release the brake pads
- Open the quick-release or loosen axle nuts:
- Quick-release: Flip the lever open, then unscrew the nut a few turns
- Axle nuts: Use a wrench to loosen the nuts
- Remove the wheel: Pull the wheel straight out of the fork
Removing the Rear Wheel
- Shift to smallest chainring and smallest rear cog (easiest gear)
- Open the brake (if you have rim brakes)
- Open the quick-release or loosen axle nuts
- Pull the derailleur back: Gently pull the rear derailleur backward to create clearance
- Remove the wheel: Pull the wheel down and back, clearing the chain and derailleur
Important: When removing the rear wheel, the chain will come off. This is normal—just make sure it doesn’t get tangled.
Step 2: Deflate the Tube Completely
Before removing the tire, make sure the tube is completely deflated:
- Remove the valve cap (if present)
- Press the valve core:
- Schrader valve (car-type): Press the pin in the center
- Presta valve (thin, threaded): Unscrew the small nut at the top, then press
- Squeeze the tire to push out any remaining air
Why this matters: A partially inflated tube can make tire removal much more difficult.
Step 3: Remove One Side of the Tire
You only need to remove one side of the tire to access the tube:
- Start opposite the valve: Find the valve stem and work on the opposite side of the tire
- Insert tire lever: Slide a tire lever under the tire bead (the edge of the tire that sits in the rim)
- Lever the tire over: Push down on the lever to pull the tire bead over the rim edge
- Hook the lever: Most tire levers have a hook—hook it onto a spoke to keep it in place
- Insert second lever: Place a second lever a few inches away and repeat
- Work your way around: Continue inserting levers and working the tire bead over the rim
- Remove the tire: Once one side is free, you can pull the tire off the rim
Pro Tip: Start opposite the valve stem—this is usually the tightest spot, and once you get it started, the rest is easier.
Step 4: Remove the Old Tube
- Pull out the valve stem: Remove the valve stem from the rim hole first
- Pull out the tube: Gently pull the tube out from under the tire
- Check the tire: Before installing the new tube, inspect the inside of the tire for:
- Sharp objects (glass, thorns, nails)
- Rough spots or cuts
- Worn areas
Critical: If you don’t remove whatever caused the flat, your new tube will go flat immediately. Run your fingers along the inside of the tire to feel for sharp objects.
Step 5: Install the New Tube
- Partially inflate the new tube: Inflate it just enough to give it shape (not fully inflated)
- Insert the valve stem: Push the valve stem through the rim hole
- Tuck the tube into the tire: Work the tube into the tire, making sure it’s not twisted or pinched
- Check the valve: Make sure the valve is straight and pointing straight out
Pro Tip: A partially inflated tube is easier to work with and less likely to get pinched during installation.
Step 6: Reinstall the Tire
This is often the trickiest part:
- Start at the valve: Begin putting the tire bead back onto the rim, starting near the valve
- Work your way around: Use your hands to push the tire bead onto the rim
- Use tire levers if needed: If the last section is tight, you can use tire levers to help, but be very careful not to pinch the tube
- Check for pinches: Before fully inflating, make sure the tube isn’t pinched between the tire and rim
Common Mistake: Pinching the tube between the tire and rim will cause an immediate flat. Always check that the tube is fully inside the tire before inflating.
Step 7: Inflate and Check
- Inflate gradually: Pump the tire up slowly, checking as you go
- Check the bead: Make sure the tire bead is seated evenly all around the rim
- Inflate to proper pressure: Check the sidewall of your tire for recommended PSI
- Road bikes: Usually 80-120 PSI
- Mountain bikes: Usually 30-50 PSI
- Hybrids: Usually 50-70 PSI
- Check for bulges: If you see a bulge, the tube may be pinched—deflate and reinstall
Step 8: Reinstall the Wheel
Installing the Front Wheel
- Slide the wheel into the fork: Make sure it’s centered
- Close the quick-release or tighten axle nuts:
- Quick-release: Tighten the nut, then close the lever (should require some force)
- Axle nuts: Tighten securely with a wrench
- Close the brake (if you opened it)
- Spin the wheel: Make sure it spins freely and doesn’t rub
Installing the Rear Wheel
- Pull the derailleur back: Create clearance for the wheel
- Guide the chain onto the smallest cog: The chain should sit on the rear cassette
- Slide the wheel into place: Make sure it’s seated in the dropouts
- Close the quick-release or tighten axle nuts
- Close the brake (if you opened it)
- Test the gears: Shift through the gears to make sure everything works
Roadside Repair Tips
If you’re fixing a flat on the side of the road:
- Find a safe spot: Get off the road, away from traffic
- Lay the bike down: Place it drive-side up (gears facing up) to protect the derailleur
- Work efficiently: The faster you work, the less time you spend on the roadside
- Check for the cause: Always find and remove whatever caused the flat
- Carry essentials: Spare tube, tire levers, and portable pump are must-haves
Pro Tip: Practice changing a tube at home before you need to do it on the road. Familiarity makes the process much faster and less stressful.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Mistake 1: Not Finding the Cause
The Problem: Installing a new tube without removing the object that caused the flat.
The Fix: Always inspect the inside of the tire and remove any sharp objects before installing the new tube.
Mistake 2: Pinching the Tube
The Problem: The tube gets pinched between the tire and rim during installation.
The Fix: Partially inflate the tube before installation, and check that it’s fully inside the tire before inflating.
Mistake 3: Wrong Tube Size
The Problem: Using a tube that’s too small or too large for your tire.
The Fix: Check your tire sidewall for size (e.g., 700x25c, 26x2.1). Tubes have a size range—make sure your tire size is within that range.
Mistake 4: Twisted Tube
The Problem: The tube gets twisted during installation, causing a kink.
The Fix: Make sure the tube lies flat inside the tire, with no twists or kinks.
Mistake 5: Not Seating the Tire Bead
The Problem: The tire bead isn’t properly seated on the rim, causing a bulge.
The Fix: Inflate gradually and check that the tire bead is evenly seated all around the rim. If you see a bulge, deflate and reseat the tire.
When to Replace the Tire (Not Just the Tube)
Sometimes, the problem isn’t the tube—it’s the tire:
Replace the tire if:
- You see cuts or holes in the tire casing
- The tire is worn thin (you can see threads or the casing)
- You’re getting frequent flats from the same area
- The tire has a bulge or deformity
Signs you need a new tire:
- Visible threads or casing showing through
- Cuts that go through the tire
- Worn tread (especially on road bikes)
- Frequent flats in the same spot
Tube Replacement FAQs
How do I know what size tube to buy?
Check the sidewall of your tire for the size (e.g., 700x25c, 26x2.1). Tubes come in size ranges, so a tube labeled '700x23-32c' will fit tires from 23mm to 32mm wide. Make sure your tire size falls within the tube's range.
Do I need to remove both sides of the tire?
No, you only need to remove one side of the tire to access the tube. Remove the side opposite the valve stem first, as this is usually the tightest spot.
Can I patch the old tube instead of replacing it?
Yes, you can patch tubes. However, for roadside repairs, it's faster to replace the tube and patch the old one at home. Patches work best when the tube is clean and dry.
How tight should the quick-release be?
The quick-release lever should require some force to close (you should see a mark on your palm when closing it). If it closes too easily, tighten the nut more. If it won't close, loosen the nut slightly.
What if I can't get the tire back on?
If the last section of tire is very tight, try: (1) Make sure the opposite bead is in the center of the rim (deepest part), (2) Use tire levers carefully (watch for pinching the tube), (3) Work the tight section a little at a time. If it's still impossible, the tire may be too small for the rim.
How do I prevent flats?
Prevention tips: (1) Keep tires properly inflated, (2) Avoid debris on the road, (3) Check tires regularly for embedded objects, (4) Replace worn tires, (5) Consider puncture-resistant tires or tire liners for frequent flats.
Can I use a tube that's slightly different in size?
Tubes are flexible and can work in a range of sizes. A tube labeled for 23-32mm will work in a 25mm tire. However, don't use a tube that's way too small (it will stretch and be prone to failure) or way too large (it will be hard to install and may pinch).
What's the difference between Schrader and Presta valves?
Schrader valves (car-type, thick) are common on mountain bikes and hybrids. Presta valves (thin, threaded) are common on road bikes. Make sure your pump head matches your valve type, or use an adapter.
Summary: Master This Essential Skill
Replacing a bicycle tube is a fundamental skill that every cyclist should know. With practice, you can change a tube in 5-10 minutes and get back on the road.
Key Steps:
- Remove the wheel
- Deflate completely
- Remove one side of the tire
- Remove the old tube
- Check the tire for causes
- Install the new tube (partially inflated)
- Reinstall the tire
- Inflate to proper pressure
- Reinstall the wheel
Remember: Always find and remove whatever caused the flat. A new tube won’t help if the cause is still in the tire. Carry a spare tube, tire levers, and a pump on every ride—you’ll be glad you did when that inevitable flat happens.
